Frequently Asked Questions

I get a lot of questions about what a Mini Plush Lop is so I hope you learn something new by reading this!

Soft, velvety fur.

Adorable "floppy" ears.

Small size (maximum adult weight is 4lbs)

Very minimal shedding, and fur density doesn't hold onto dander and other allergens like most pet fur does.

Mini Plush Lops were first started in 1995 by Devie D'anniballe.

First, I want to explain the rabbits with "floppy ears". The most common that people confuse are the Holland Lop and the Mini Lop.

Can you guess which is smaller?

A lot of people are surprised to find the Holland Lop is actually the smaller of the two!

The Mini Lop was used first, but a smaller size was desired which is why Devie D'anniballe decided to use the Holland lop to create the breed along with the Mini Rex.

Which leads me into the next topic - what is a mini rex? I see A LOT of people being misled or mistaking their rabbit for a mini rex. The unique thing about the mini rex is their fur! Mini rex fur stands out from most rabbits because their fur is very plush and velvety. You won't see long, straight hair (like cat fur) that you see in most rabbits on a mini rex. Instead, their fur will look almost identical to a plush blanket. They have very soft fur and while there aren't enough official studies to call them hypoallergenic, decrease in allergy symptoms have been consistently reported by allergy sufferers who are in contact with the mini rex breed. This is likely due to the fact that their fur density doesn't allow a lot of dander to build up, and they also shed significantly less than most rabbits.

In order to bring the overall size down even more - Devie D'anniballe decided to add in the Netherland Dwarf to help finish perfecting this new, and still rare, breed. A Netherland Dwarf is a very small rabbit, with a round head and short, tiny ears.

Mixing these breeds isn't as easy as you would think. In order to keep the soft fur, and floppy ears and small size, D'anniballe carefully selected and planned each rabbit to use from what she was producing in order to create this amazing breed of rabbit!

This is up to the new owner, but in my opinion, rabbits do not need vaccines. They aren't like cats or dogs that need vaccines yearly and to be kept up to date on a specific schedule.

 Unless you plan to have your rabbit around a lot of other rabbits (possibly at rabbit shows, or you frequently bring home rabbits that were stray) and let them interact with your rabbit, vaccines are not necessary, in my opinion, but again, this is up to the new owner to decide what they feel comfortable with.

There are two types of vaccines for rabbits. 

One is for RHVD, or Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease. RHVD and RHVD2 is a contagious disease spread among rabbits. Symptoms include fever, lack of appetite, muscle spasms, and hemorrhaging from the nose or mouth, along with sudden death. The time between exposure to symptoms is 16-48 hours. This means as long as you aren't frequently letting your bunny interact with stray rabbits, or rabbits at shows, or with rabbits who's owners have them around other rabbits, the chance of your rabbit contracting this virus is very low. The chance is never zero, which is why I stress that this is a choice for the owner to make based on what they feel comfortable with. 

The second vaccine available for rabbits is for Mycotoxicosis. Mycotoxicosis is a disease resulting from mycotoxins (toxin produced by fungi) that can cause disease in rabbits. In short, it is caused by eating moldy food. If you are ever unsure if your rabbits food is unsafe (weird smell, color, texture, has been wet, or looks abnormal, do not feed this to your rabbits. The vaccine works by producing antibodies which help reduce the toxic effects of the mycotoxins. This is a choice for the new owner to make based on what they feel comfortable with.

 Rabbits have individual personalities. Some may be friendly and active, some may be more laid back. My rabbits are handled from just hours old and raised indoors around kids, vacuums, loud noises, and dogs. They all get free time to roam the house, play in the yard, and interact with my family. This is all done to insure the best chance for my rabbits to be social. friendly and have the ability to be a part of their new family.  

 Rabbits need hay to make up at least 80% of their diet. A pile of hay the size of their body is recommended per day. The rest of their diet should consist of pellets (without colored pieces since these are high in sugar), vegetables, and lastly, a small amount of fruit.  

We offer this service for a reasonable cost. We come to you or meet you somewhere without your rabbit ever having to leave your sight. 

Rabbits need to be brushed regularly to prevent hair causing digestive issues, such as GI Stasis, as well as matting. They need their teeth checked regularly to prevent dental problems and difficulty eating and drinking. They need their nails clipped to avoid ripping a nail out or getting a nail caught on something. It's also important to clean their scent glands from time to time to avoid bad odors. 

 All of our rabbits start litter training at just a few weeks old. However, some rabbits are just not successful with litter training. Spaying or neutering can help a lot with this but is not a guarantee.  

GI Stasis - Signs: Abnormal poop shape, no poop, diarrhea. Treatment: Critical Care, baby gas drops, stomach massage, vet care.

Dental Problems - Signs: Drooling, swelling, lumps around jaw. Treatment: Vet!

Sore Hocks - Signs: Bald spot on feet, scabs on feet, limping, struggling to walk. Treatment: Give a solid floor area to rest feet, keep cage clean, keep rabbit clean and dry, 

Heat Stroke - Signs: Panting, excessive thirst, lethargic. Treatment: Cool rabbit down by moving to cool area, wipe ears with slightly cool water. Do not bring your rabbit's body temperature down too fast by using cold water. Over heating can cause death extremely fast so it's best to avoid this situation by making sure your rabbit is never in direct sunlight or extreme temperatures. 

Mites - Signs: Scabs in ears, head shaking. Treatment: Rub olive oil on your rabbit's ears 3x/day. If it doesn't improve within a week, take your rabbit to the vet. 

 Bunnies are not naturally social animals. They can enjoy a friend, but it's not required. If you plan on getting more than one bunny, it's very important to know that you will need to put in extra effort for them to be bonded or that you will need to always keep them separated. We do offer bunny bonding, or you can attempt to do it yourself, but it's also important to know that even if bunnies are bonded, the bond may not last forever and you must be willing to provide proper living conditions where they can live separately.  

 Bunnies are usually pretty easy to litter train. You can make this process even easier by having your bunny spayed or neutered. You can find tips on potty training your bunny here.